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Here are comments on solving Audi Hydraulic Leaks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- FIRST - USE THE RIGHT HYDRAULIC FLUID It is most important, do not confuse hydraulic oil and ATF. They are not the same thing and ATF in the hydraulic system will ruin the seals. This WILL lead to leaks in the steering and possibly cause the check valves in the accummulator to stick. This leads to power brake loss unless you have a particularly good pump working for you. Some Audi models DO use ATF in specific systems. Check before you assume this is safe for your hydraulic system!!!! The reservoir cap normally specifies which fluid is correct. Also check the owner's manual. The correct fluid is Pentosin hydraulic fluid. This is specified by both BMW and Audi (proabably others). There are two types. Both are mineral based although one is called "synthetic." The primary difference is the upper bound on temperature range. For the "7.1s" fluid this is 100 c. for the "11s" fluid it is 140 c. 1984 and older model years use the 7.1s fluid. 1985 and newer use the 11s fluid. This costs about $18 to $22 per liter. If you have used ATF or hydraulic jack oil in the past, you must get this out of the system. You can drain the reservior by disconnecting the return line from the pressure accummulator. Gravity does the job. I used only one litre of fluid to flush and fill mine. Don't forget this fluid also circulates through the power steering. To move fluid here you need to turn the wheels lock to lock with both front wheels off the ground. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- FIXING THE LEAKING "X" PLUG ON TOP OF THE POWER STEERING PUMP The "X" plug is right on top of the power steering pump. If it is leaking, the top of the power steering pump will be wet with Pentosin hydraulic fluid. When you have a very oily power steering pump, first clean the top of the pump and the surrounding area with something like spray brake disk cleaner. Then start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. You should see leakage around the "X" plug on the top, if this is the problem. TOOLS AND PARTS NEEDED for the repair. A drag link socket is like a stubby, wide, screwdriver. Go to a NAPA auto parts store and ask for a 11/16 inch, 3/8 drive drag link socket. You may need to touch the outer corners to a grindstone, to narrow it maybe 1/16", otherwise it fits like a charm. When you go to NAPA, and the guy behind the counter looks like he is going to search catalogs for hours, it's NAPA part # NB-95. Then go to the Audi parts counter and order the "X" plug & the O-ring, pn: 026-145-541, before the entire back of the car is covered with Pentosin :-) WORK PROCEDURE for Installation Before starting this, with the engine off pump the brake pedal 30 or 40 times until it gets very stiff. This releases the pressure from the accumulator system. Leave the engine off. Clean the area around the "X" plug on top of the hydraulic pump. A spray can of brake disk cleaner works very well for this. If you have an impact hammer, use it and the drag link socket. Otherwise, use the drag link socket with a ratchet handle - keeping the screwdriver end completely straight in the shallow groove of the "X" plug. Loosen the "X" plug and unscrew it. Put a tiny bit of hydraulic fluid on the o-ring of the new "X" plug, and screw the plug into the hydraulic pump. Using the drag link socket, tighten the "X" plug tight. It depends on the o-ring for sealing, so you don't have to use brute force in the tightening. The Bentley for 89 - 91 100/200 models provides details on replacing pump seals in the chapter on "Steering"... 37 ft lbs is the spec. After making sure all tools are out of the engine compartment, start the engine and check for leaks around the "X" plug area. It should stay nice and dry now!
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